Italien 15th century dress, a gamurra, for sale

A year ago I made this 15th century Italian dress, a gamurra, with a overdress, a giornea, to go with it. I was going to an sca-event in Bulgaria and needed a cool dress, and could therefore not use my woolen ones. The gamurra was an Italien dress worn during the 15th and 16th century by all classes of sociaty. Its worn over a camicia, a Italien shirt. Its a style I dont know that much about and I did not do as much research that I usually do before I made it. Since it is earlier than the dresses I usually use and therefore not really my cup of tea, I have not used it since then. I like the dress, I just dont like me in it. So, I desided to sell it. Its to beautiful to just stay in my closet. It needs to get out of the closet!

Its a size 38 and quite tight. And Im 182 cm tall.
For the dress, the overdress and the bonnet I want 4000 kr.





The gamurra could be made of silk damask, brocade, satin or wool. I made mine with silk and lined it with linen. The guards are made of hamp. The thread used is waxed linen.

The hooks and eyes are places two centimeters apart, and bought, not handmade. 

The hem is reinforced with a straight cut strip of hemp. 

This is the hem insideout. 

The loose sleeves is tied to the dress by these rings. The ties are made of black syntetic velvet. 

To my gamurra I also made a giornea, a sleeveless, sideless surcoat, in goldish hamp. The overdress is not handsewn and very quickly made. My plan was to redo it after the event but that never happend. The loose sleeves are open on one side from the elbow down. 

And here is some pictures of my fantastic travelcompanions, in german 15th and 16th clothing. 

Brüstlein - the German jacket

A lot is happening right now! I bought a jacket from a friend a couple of years ago but it has always been to big for me. So instead of remake that one I desided to make a new one from scratch. Its more fun to wear clothes I made by my self. It got ready yesterday. And Im going to Cudjel today, a SCA event in Finland, so it got ready in the last minute!

I wanted to make a jacket for a Bauer, a farmer, or a Bruger, towns dwellers. But the wammes (doublet) are seen on woman from all classes. In Nürnberg the jacket was called Brüstlein or Brüstla but in other parts of Germany the jacket was also called Joppe, Wams, Leib, Brustleib, Brüstle, Leibstück, Leibchen, Prüstla, and Mieder. Ärmelbrüstlein is also used which might mean that the word brüstlein is used for jacketlike garments without sleevs too. The German coats look a lot like the English versions but seem to lack the wings on the shoulder. The neckline can vary, from high-necked to square and rounded. The sleeves can be tight fitted like mine or puffy around the shoulders. They can have gussets for fitting at the waist or more like a short skirt. 
In Sebald Behams Die große Kirchweih there is a lot of different jackets, a lot of inspiration! Here are some of the most clear ones.

I looked at the pattern for a Burger Womans wammes from the patternbook from Enns presented in Drei Schnittbücher but I desided not to use it. In that patternbook the jacket is called wamas. To make one from the book would have taken me to much time. Instead I remade a pattern I got from my friend who sold me the other jacket. But I wanted a different neckline so I needed to change it.

Beeing in a bit of a hurry I used a fabric, a brown wool, that I had at home already. It might be of a higher quality then what a farmer would have been able to wear. And the colour is a bit to dark/strong too. So, for a woman living in town then! I lined it with natural coloured linen.

I have used waxed linen thread for sewing the jacket. According to the Patterns of fashion linen, silk and wool thread where used in German 16^th century clothing. I wanted to use linen beacuse a farmer or towns dwellers would probably do so. And I had a lot of linen thread at home already. The seams are back stitched and the seam allowens are folded down and wipstitched or hidden under the lining. The sleeves are sewn in between the lining and the outer fabric.

I have always found it difficult with sleeves. So this time, when I made something not as tight fitted as a dress, I tried to attach the sleeve before I continued with the rest of the bodies. I dont know if this is a good way to do it, but it worked this time. 

Sources:

Textilier hausrat

The Tudor Tailor

Drei Schnittbücher

Annika Madejska Documentation fruenwams.

Pattern made by Linda at Handcrafted history. 

Edit 29/10 -19. 

And this is the result when you try to make a jacket in just one week. Two laurels and one protége needs to help you fix it...! The picture is taken at Cudjel wars in Aarnimetsä (Finland).

Tuna Ting

This weekend I visited Tuna Ting, a medival market in the town next to mine. My first plan was to bring my tent but there was some rain both friday and saturday and I dont have anywhere to dry my tent up, so no tent for me. Luckily there is only a 20 minute drive.

Im wearing a linen shirt (hemd), a wollen dress that was finished last year (ärmelrock), red with black guards, a black gollar, a white untergollar with embroideries and the steuchlein, the typical 16th century german headwear for women. Im also wearing an apron (schurz), just finished.  

The untergollar is made like this.

The steuchlein.

And the schurz like this.

My veil was in the way while helping in the kitchen, not really dressed for that. 

There was some sewing. Im working on a new veil for my golden egg-project that I will present here when its done. Im sorry for the modern socks, I had my linen 16th century ones on saturday. You didnt see them until I told you, did you?

Johanna, Tom and Mathias did some fantastic cooking. While the rest of us was just hanging around, sewing, talking, having a good time.

After some help getting into his armour Niklas dubbed all the children at the market. Making some new knights!