söndag 11 april 2021

The battle at Brunnbäcks färja

Gustav Vasa's War of Liberation, Gustav Vasa's uprising and the War of Liberation are some of the names of the war events that began in 1521 as an uprising against Christian II, King of Denmark and Norway who recently returned Sweden to the Kalmar Union. The war led to Sweden finally leaving the Kalmar Union and that Gustav Eriksson, later called Gustav Vasa, was elected King of Sweden in 1523. The battle at Brunnbäcks färja was one of the first larger battles. It happened in the beginning of april 1521. That is 500 years ago now. So yesterday my 16th century group made a visit to the location. We took a lot of pictures and had some swedish "fika" and later in the evening we had our ordinary guild´s meeting. The guild, Sankt Örjens Guild, is an association of people who try to recreate life in Dalecarlia during the first half of the 16th century, through clothing, food, drinks and weapons exercises.

As many of you know by now I mostly do 16th century German clothing. But yesterday I made a shot at Swedish 16th century, with clothes I already had. 

This is what I looked like yesterday.

Im wearing my two red dresses, the underklänning and överklänning in swedish, as usual. And a linen apron, a linen untergollar with a little ruffle and a thinn mantle in brown wool. And Im covering my hair with a linen cloth and a wool barrett.

 
There were also some Germans there...Most have come there together with the Danish army...those landsknechts...
 
 
And of course two Dalecarlian soldiers fighting for the man who was going to try to be king of Sweden. 
They obviously did a good job because they won this battle.
 

There were some commoners too. 
 

There is a memorial stone on the location, as you can see in the background here.   
 
And as brave Dalecarlian soldiers they fighted the invaders with all they had...
 
 
...or?


The guild at the memorial stone.
 

After our excursion we had food and drinks at the guilds meeting place, out in the woods close to Falun. 




onsdag 7 april 2021

The male hairnet

Today you dont see that many male reenactors with hairnets. They are mostly used by women. But while looking at 16th century inspiration in arts its quite clear that hairnet where very common also on men. 


They look a bit different from womens hairnets. A bit smaller, a bit pointed, with a very distinct shape. Me and a friend of mine had a disscussion about the shape, that it might have some kind of padding to create that special shape. Or did all of them have a lot of hair in some kind of weird hairdo? I didnt think so, but I wasnt sure, so I needed to try to make one. The woodcut above is made by Hans Buegkmair 1514. 


This is Jakob Fugger, painted by Albrecht Durer. Jakob semse to like hairnets, he is wearing them in a lot of paintings. 
This is him too...also by Durer. 


And again..


These types of nets has a very distinct shape. High at the front and at the back. And often a round shape in the front. Probably in the back too but its much more difficult to find a picture of this. 

Here you see the round shape very clearly.


It might be possible to make this shape with macramé too but I dont work in that technique, so I thought of sprang of course. If you make a squared net in sprang and pull the sides together, this type of round eye apears. So I wanted to try to make one, to see if would get the right shape on its own or if I needed to work with the net somehow. 

All of the men above might be wealty, at least Fugger was, very wealty. But the hairnets is also seen on men from other social classes. 
Like this guy, a crossbowman made by Holbein.

The same pointy shape with the eye in the front. The material might be linen in his net, and silk in Jakob Fuggers... The shape is the same but the cost of the material is the differens between the poor and the wealthy. But I have not yet seen a net on the head of a farmer. There are paintings of executioners with hairnets though. I have not tried making a silk net yet, but I have som at home, so, soon. 

And here is the result. I made a sprang hairnet in black linen. It has a wool binding all away around, in green wool. To make it stay on there is a fingerloop braid to knot it tight. 


It has no padding. The shape appears from the shape of the net, when pulling the sides together tightly, creating the round eye in the front. The string needs to lay on top of the binding, and not on the net, to not press it down and take away the shape. 

The warp was 40 cm long and made out of 56 loops. 


Here we can see that the front and the back has the same pointy shape. This net is a bit smaller than the female versions I have made before, where I want a wulst to fit underneath. This kind of male net seems to sit more on the top of the head than on the head. 


And with a hat!


I think it looks sooo 16th century Germany! Im really happy with it. Next time I might make the warp bigger but tighter, to see if the shape can be even more distinct. 
I think more men should wear hairnets!