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lördag 6 april 2019

Untergollar in linen inspired by Katharina von Bora

Yesterday I finished a untergollar inspired by the lovely lady Katharina von Bora, Martin Luthers wife. 
Lucas Cranach d.Ä.
Its made in white linen and white linen waxed thread with black silk embroidery and a 4-strand braid. The braid is used for decorations at the front and neckline and to tie it together.
The embroidery is double running stitch. My plan was to be able to wear the gollar a bit open. The double running stitch makes the design appear the same on both sides. But Im not use to do embroidery and the inside does not look as good as the outside. Just need to keep practising! 

The measures are without seam allowance and is suitable for someone who is a medium.
A gollar is a 16th century German garment for women, to wear over a dress, a outerlayer, as a kind of sleeveless jacket or a collar or it can be worn almost as a shirt, covering up when wearing dresses with a low neckline. Most people makes a gollar to wear on top of their clothing,but the untergollar is as common in paintings if you start looking for it. It can be easy to assume it is the shirt. The untergollar seemse to always be in white linen while the outergollar can be in wool, silk or velvet.
Paintings showing what is probably untergollars, by Christoph Amberger, Peter Gertner and Lucas Cranach the younger

Here are exemples of the more common ones among reenactors, the one looking like a collar and the sleeveless jacket. 






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