The Schaublein - Part 3 Trial and error

To make a garment from a pattern without a description is not always easy. Its like a puzzle without a picture. I made a schaublein for a vinterevent in december and it worked, I did not froze, but the pieces where not put together correctly. So, after telling you all about my new garment at my blog, a friend gently pusched me in the right direction and I started all over, lucky to have enough fabric left. In the pattern, from Drei Schnittbücher, and the tailor book Leonfeldner, it says that the front collar and back yoke are cut gestalt, producing a high fitted neck. Now I understand that sentence.. 

I also did the second schaublein a bit longer than my first one that was after the original pattern. It was a bit short, I'm quite tall. The new one is also lined with fur, actually mink, a little bit to fancy for my persona but I didnt want to buy new rabbitfur. This fur comes from an old coat and it took me some time to find it. Its made in a black wool, with waxed white linen thread, using backstitch. The seam allowance is folded down and whip stitched, even inside the garment, under the fur.

In my earlier try I put the back yoke up side down, as you see here. That make the high fitted neck to disappear. Be careful, in the book the pattern for the back yoke is put up side down. 

When I turned it right it gets a totaly different look. The new one is much more comfortable around the neck. 

The out- and inside.

I will be honest, it was difficult for me to let the old info stay at the blog, I didnt want to show my mistake. But my motto is ”Dont show me your mistakes, show me what you learned” and I most say, after my irritation settled, I did learn a lot. And maybe someone else will learn from this too.

Look the same, dont you think! The picture is from Klaidungsbüchlein, or The book of clothes compiled by the Augsburg accountant Matthaus Schwarz between 1520 and 1560. On the 20th february, 1538, he was wearing a schaublein, with a little more fabric than in mine, and green trims of half silk. To the picture he wrote "20th february, 1538, when I desided to take a wife, the gown was made with green trims of half silk". 

This is what I was going for.

You will find more informtion about my earlier try here:

The Schaublein - part 1

The Schaublein - Part 2

A new hemd

I needed a new basic hemd (shirt) so I chosed to make one with offset neckline. There is probably a name for that special neckline, but I dont know it, do you so please let me know. I really like the look of it and it occurs in some of my favorit paintings. This kind om hemd appear to occur until 1525 in paintings, so, used during the early 16th Century in Germany. If anyone have found it in a later painting please tell me about that too.

Paintings with this type of neckline. Wolf Traut Portrait of a Woman 1510, Hans Holbein the Elder, Portrait of a 34 year old woman, 1516-17, Bernhard Strigel ortrait of a woman 1510 and Bernhard Strigel (1465–1528) Porträt der Magdalena, Gräfin von Montfort, geb. von Öttingen.

Its made in linen with waxed linen thread, using both running stitch and backstitch. The seam allowance is folded down and whip stitched. Its in two pieces, with two sidegores and sleeves. As a pattern I looked at the pictures from Renikes blog, she has already done a hemd like this. My shoulderseams are not, however, the same as hers because I wanted a wider neckline. To make the neckline wider I placed the shoulderseams further down the shoulders. My plan is to make a embroidery for the neckline, someday...

A first try at drawn threadwork.

Lace have always inspired me, maybe just because I dont have the knowledge and skill (yet!) to make it myself. As I was doing research for a new shirt I was looking through Patterns of fashion 4 and found something simliar to lace that I actually might be able to do by myself. Drawn threadwork! It was used during the 16th century in Germany, as well as in Sweden. A Swedish exampel is a shirt from 1567, a part of the Sturekläderna/Stureclothing, stored in the treassury of the tower of Uppsala cathedral. I had some sparetime today so I thought I was going to try drawn threadwork for fun. I will make an apron decorated with drawn threadwork someday but as a first try I made a napkin. It is made in linen and I saved all the threads using them when sewing. I did not have enought of the thread from the linen so I pulled threads from another piece of the same linen. I tried to use the linen thread I normaly use for sewing at one part but it was to thick and it looked bulky. The total amount of time that it took to make this napkin was six hours or so.

I started by pulling out five threads and folding the edge. 

Sewing five threads together at the top...

...and at the bottom. 

At the left you see the using of the thread from the linen and to the right you see the using of my normal linen thread, much more bulky.

Cut the threads at the sides if you want to have the decorations on all sides. 

The finished napkin is is 39 cm (15,3 inch).

This, at Whiljas blog, is what drawn threadwork look like if you do something a bit more difficult then a napkin!