lördag 17 november 2018

The Schaublein - Part 1


In december I will go to Visby for the SCA-Styringheim Luciafeast. It is probably going to be amazing, if I dont freeze, I hate freezing. So, I need a warm outergarment. For women there were several long and short ones to choose from, the "mantel," the "Husecke" and the "Schäublein" the most common ones, in 16th century southern Germany. In Textilier Hausrat Jutta Zandel-Seidel describes all three of them. To choose a type and to find a good pattern I looked at the ones in Drei Schnittbücher. The Janker described there most be what the Textilier hausrat describes as a Husecke, fitted in the shoulders and with hanging sleeves. The schäublein/Schaübel is also described, with a front collar and back yoke. The same garment have many names, depending on dialectal differensies it seems. The schäublein in Drei Schnittbücher, from the Leonfeldner Schnittbuch, is for a bride but I have found a lot of pictures showing exemples of the same garment worn by both the upper and lower classes.



In the painting Gesellenstechen auf dem Nürnberger Hauptmarkt, from 1560 we can see two ladies in one of the corners. One is wearing a husecke and the other is wearing a schaublein.

You can find the painting here: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geschichte_der_Stadt_N%C3%BCrnberg#/media/File:N%C3%BCrnbergerGesellenstechen1561L1070615_(2).jpg

And in Hans Weigels costume book, plate 21, I found what I wanted, a Nuremberg woman in weekday dress with a short-trimmed cloak. It looks the same as the Gepratüt ein Schaübel, Brides little schaube, the pattern in Drei Schnittbücher. So that is what Im going to use. Wish me luck!




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