The Schaublein - Part 2

Edit2: You find schaublein number two here.
Edit: The pieces in the pattern are not sewn together correctly. I have made a new one and waiting for fur to be able to do the lining. To be continued...

7-9 of December I went to Visby to attend Styringheims Luciafeast, Nordmark principality tournament and Styringsheims baronial investiture, a lot were happening at the same event! To not get cold I wanted to make a schaublein, as I have already told you about. And it finished right in time.
The schaublein, as a diminutive form of Schaube appears synonymous in historical terminology with Mäntelein, the hip-short lady's coat. Schaublein is translated as little schaube, so, a short schaube. In the 16th century Germany there where several long and short coats for women found in inventory, while since the second third of 16th century short coats increase rapidly and the long ones outside the upper classes almost completely disapears.
The pattern I used, Gepratut ein Schaubel, Brides little schaube, is from Drei Schnittbucher, by Katherine Barich and Marion McNealy. I made mine with a black wool and fur lining.

My inspiration also came from Hans Weigels costum book plate 21 from 1577 and Bartolomei Grassis Drie vrouwen, gekleed volgens de mode in Neurenberg from 1580. In Grassis picture you can also see the longer outergarment called Husecke.

To get the angle right I used a pen on a string, something I learned from a lecture by Marion McNealy in medival week in Visby 2014 or 2015.

It should be the same measures as the garment in the book.

The pieces are sewn together with waxed linen thread. This is from before the seams are folded down and whip stitched.

And this is after.

I started to insert the fur lining by the back yoke after all the seams where folded down.

The fur came from an old coat that I took apart. It was a bit tricky to get the pieces right.

Im cutting the fur with a knife instead of instead of scissors. With a pair of scissors you will get fur everywhere. When the pieces of fur is not big enough for the pieces of the pattern I sewed them together with linen thread. 

When the fur was inserted I ironed all my seams from the outside. And it is ready to be used!

From behind.

And from the front. 

The openings in the sideseams are very practical, it makes the garment very easy to wear. You could move your hands without opening the garment, without geeting cold. I dont know if there where any openings in the pattern from Drei Schnittbucher but my inspirationpictures had them so I did too.