Marlein - a 16th century wardrobe: The Schaublein

To make a garment from a pattern without a description is not always easy. Its like a puzzle without a picture. I made a schaublein for a vinterevent in december and it worked, I did not froze, but the pieces where not put together correctly. So, after telling you all about my new garment at my blog, a friend gently pusched me in the right direction and I started all over, lucky to have enough fabric left. In the pattern, from Drei Schnittbücher, and the tailor book Leonfeldner, it says that the front collar and back yoke are cut gestalt, producing a high fitted neck. Now I understand that sentence..

I also did the second schaublein a bit longer than my first one that was after the original pattern. It was a bit short, I'm quite tall. The new one is also lined with fur, actually mink, a little bit to fancy for my persona but I didnt want to buy new rabbitfur. This fur comes from an old coat and it took me some time to find it. Its made in a black wool, with waxed white linen thread, using backstitch. The seam allowance is folded down and whip stitched, even inside the garment, under the fur.

In my earlier try I put the back yoke up side down, as you see here. That make the high fitted neck to disappear. Be careful, in the book the pattern for the back yoke is put up side down.

When I turned it right it gets a totaly different look. The new one is much more comfortable around the neck.

The out- and inside.

I will be honest, it was difficult for me to let the old info stay at the blog, I didnt want to show my mistake. But my motto is ”Dont show me your mistakes, show me what you learned” and I most say, after my irritation settled, I did learn a lot. And maybe someone else will learn from this too.

Look the same, dont you think! The picture is from Klaidungsbüchlein, or The book of clothes compiled by the Augsburg accountant Matthaus Schwarz between 1520 and 1560. On the 20th february, 1538, he was wearing a schaublein, with a little more fabric than in mine, and green trims of half silk. To the picture he wrote "20th february, 1538, when I desided to take a wife, the gown was made with green trims of half silk".